Grindal Worm Culture
(Page created by Ronnie Lee)
Grindal
Worm Cultures ... heard about but never seen ...
.. and that was the case until I bought my first starter culture from a Canadian
friend sometime in late 2001. Since then, I've experimented with various media,
feeds and trays. Each has it's merit but YMMV.
Anyway, these little crawlies are thread-like between 4-6mm in length and sized somewhere between microworms and whiteworms*, which fills the gap nicely before young fishes move up to chopped tubifex worms.
For those unfamiliar with grindals, I should mention that these worms are relatives to the common earthworm and unlike the bloodworms, it's not a larvae that'll morph into a six-legged, bloodsucking bug!
* Nope! I've not been able to get any whiteworms nor would I want to try since these fellas can't deal with our warm weather.... but I understand they'll do well in our fridges!!
Also, tubifex is commonly mis-spelt as tubiflex or tublifex... nadda!!
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This
"poor man's raising tray" uses takeaway plastic containers;
2 lower base and one lid. The middle container, with ventilation and drainage
holes, houses the worms and peat bedding.
Excess water drains into the lower container and serves as a humidity check since the worms require a damp, but not soggy, bedding. Cotton
is stuffed into a hole on the lid for ventilation and preventing fruit-flies
infestation. |
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Grindals gathered at the previous feast. To help 'migrate' or spread the worms, sprinkle food around the edges of the worm mass.
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A
second design similar to one above but using circular plastic 'tubs' instead.
Expanded clay pellets were originally at the base to prevent the bedding
going anaerobic and also for drainage.
Following a mites infestation (tiny little buggers that competes with the worm for food but harmless to humans), I submerged the entire contents in water to try and drown the mites. Since the expanded clay are lighter than peat.... they didn't sink like the Titanic! A
bottom water-filled tray will help prevent ants making out in the worm's
bedding too! |
| Most worms dislike bright light and promptly make a hasty retreat. |
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The
following box was an inspiration while researching on vermiculture/vermicomposting
and can be considered a down-scaled version of a vermiculture bin.
"Project Vermi" is presently on the drawing board since
the local supplier is out of it until end of March 2003, but I'm itching
to see if my killies take well to "red wigglers" (specifically
Eisenia foetida) as supplementary diet. |
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This
is a plastic critter-keeper with holes 'punched' out with a 40w soldering
iron. I realized from earlier designs, that drainage and ventilation was
inadequate... so now, I've added a whole lot more!
One can also use a dremel to drill the holes but it'll be dusty and the acrylic might crack. It's
so much easier with an iron... fast and clean. |
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bottom critter-keeper is left intact (no holes) and solely for the purpose
of collecting excess water. Note that not all the holes are blocked by the lower segment. |
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I'm feeling naughty.... let's roll around in some dirt!
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| Spaghnum
moss (bottom layer) retains water very well and doesn't clog up the drainage
holes.. Vermiculite retains moisture too but not as much as moss.
Potting mix (at top) that's pH buffered, will make a nice bed... all they need now is a pillow and blanket. |
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Moisten the bedding liberally with a a gentle spray and run off excess water.
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| Take
a small portion of grindals from a thriving culture to the new bed and
sprinkle a few bits of food around it. The tiny orange globs are not worm-eggs but floating pellets for small fishes. Dried
potato flakes and oatmeal is cheaper but I prefer to give the worms
a varied diet too!. Your killies and other fishes will also benefit
from the gut-loaded grindals. |
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A
fine netting, thin cotton cloth or critter cover will allow air in and
fruit-flies out. Now, store the raising box in a dark place and feed the
little fellas once every few days.
Gauge
the worm's food intake and be careful not to overfeed. |
| This
was one of the earlier cultures that used mostly spaghnum moss as bedding
with a thin layer of peat (seen in the darker section on the left). I observed that they don't 'migrate' as easily on moss as on peat. Perhaps it was an acidity issue?? .. that I wouldn't know... me ain't no rocket scientist! Reproductive
rate was also considerably slower and often leaves behind uneaten food. |
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... which turns moldy. |
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There's
an article by Dennis Heltzel titled "Raising
Grindal Worms" that's a very good read.
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